Category Archives: Exotic Animals

How to Care for a Pet Tarantula

Are you considering getting a tarantula? If so, you may want to read through this article to get a basic idea of the kind of care required to sustain this unconventional, furry pet.

The first thing you should know about tarantulas is that there are two main kinds you can keep as pets: burrowing tarantulas and climbing tarantulas. You will alter the environmental setup depending on which kind of tarantula you have. The second thing you must know is which species are good for beginner tarantula owners. There are plenty of great starter tarantulas. A few examples include the Mexican Red-knee, Curly Hair, Common Pink Toe, Costa Rican Stripe Knee, and the Chilean Rose. You’d be well-advised to understand the breed you are buying before you buy it. Certain species of tarantula are better left to experienced owners. Although they are beautiful, species such as the Cobalt Blue and Orange Baboon can be extremely aggressive and possess potentially dangerous venom. Therefore, you should start out with the more amiable breeds.

Necessary Equipment:

You’ll need a small aquarium tank or critter keeper to house the tarantula. The enclosure should be around 3x the leg-span of your tarantula in length, and if it is a burrowing tarantula, twice the leg-span in depth. Since tarantulas can climb the walls of the enclosure, you don’t want the walls to be too high for a burrowing tarantula because they can fall and injure themselves. Next you need potting soil or peat moss to use as substrate in the bottom of the tank. Naturally, a burrowing tarantula is going to require deeper substrate than a climbing tarantula. Aim for about 4 inches deep, or use the leg-span of your spider as a rule of thumb. If you happen to own an arboreal(climbing) tarantula, you’ll need to get branches and twigs for it to climb. The walls of the container should be quite high for these breeds.

Do not use bright lights of any kind around your tarantula. They prefer dimness and darkness. Although they prefer temperatures of 75-85 degrees F., any necessary heating should be done with an under-tank heat pad and not a light.


Tarantulas are mainly insectivores, although they can also eat small mice and reptiles. Most pet tarantulas are fed a staple diet of crickets. Thankfully you don’t need to spend too much money on crickets for a tarantula because they tend to only eat about two or three crickets every 2 weeks.

Provide water in a shallow jar lid or bowl. The water source should be no more than an inch deep for an adult spider, and even more shallow for a younger one.

The Different Types Of Parrots

Within this article, we’ll concentrate on the distinctive types associated with the African Grey Parrot. The initial African Grey Parrot would be the Congo African Grey, Timneh African Grey Parrot, Ghana African Grey and the Cameroon African Grey Parrot.

Nonetheless, by far the most renowned is the Congo and the Timneh African Grey. The Ghana African Grey is similar to the Congo African Grey however smaller in size with a deeper colour.

Then there’s the Cameroon African Grey, which is quite a uncommon parrot. Within the natural environment, all of these avian survive on fruit, nuts and vegetables which can be located in the uppermost parts of the trees. They are very outgoing birds and group together.

They live in the rainforest and has a mate for life. Domesticated parrots will occasionally pull out their feathers when ever bored just to entertain themselves. Simply because they are intellectual birds, they need to be stimulated or they will simply get bored.

They are able to duplicate a large number of sounds and this is the rationale that they are so more expensive. African Grey and most parrot groups are temperamental and challenging birds at times. Once you own an African Grey you can assume to have a life- long relationship with your parrot if it is taken care of.

As a result of their high demand, breeders readily breed them. Toddlers and the aged should take care around parrots as they have very sharp claws and beaks .Parrots want a lot of dedication and commitment but most of all love.

Bear in mind you are answerable for your parrots requirements, and the most essential thing he requires other than food, is fresh water daily as he not only drinks of his water but also bathes in it. Clean out the food and water dishes frequently, as these are idyllic sites for harmful bacteria to grow.

Like I said this is a long time relationship therefore his cage which is his home is of upmost relevance. Needless to say, the larger the bird, the bigger the cage.

When purchasing a baby parrot, take a look at the size of its parents to know how big the bird will grow so that you can know what size the cage needs to be when the bird is completely grown. You are able to purchase a smaller cage at the start when the parrot is a baby never the less you will need to switch it more rapidly than you think.

Barrel Racing Horses

Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned barrel racer, your success in competition will greatly depend on you choice of Barrel Horse. Barrel Racing Horses are almost as diverse as the human race itself and it is imperative that you consider many factors in making the final decision on a Barrel Racing team mate.

The first consideration is your target level of competition. Is it your desire to go out on Saturday afternoon and compete in the local play day? If your main ambition is play days then your choice of ideal horse will surely be different than if you compete weekly in a major organization such as NBHA. If you’re just looking for a play day horse, an older, seasoned horse may be your best bet. Older horses are much calmer and can often be purchased at a significant discount from their younger brothers. If, on the other hand, you are looking to place in the 1D bracket on a weekly basis then you need to be prepared to pay considerably more for a well trained, proven Barrel Horse.

If you are a beginning barrel rider, and you feel you have the patience and skill set, it may be best for you to purchase an untrained horse and do the training yourself. Barrel Racing is a team sport. The team consists of one horse and one rider. What better way to become a great team than to learn the sport from the ground up. It is not difficult to train a barrel horse. There is plenty of information out there to help you be successful. But it will take time and patience. If you are wanting to compete immediately then a trained horse is certainly your best option.

When purchasing a barrel racing horse to train, you will probably be purchasing a horse that didn’t quite work out at some other job. A reigning horse, cow horse, or race horse that for whatever reason didn’t live up to their trainers expectations. That doesn’t mean they won’t be an excellent Barrel Racing Horse. The horse may not have been perfectly suited for the job they were being trained to do….or possibly the trainer did a poor job and fell short in the training department. The horse may still make you a great Barrel Racing team mate.

Purchasing a trained horse does not mean you can jump on, enter a barrel horse race and expect to place first in 1D, even if you have spent a great deal of money on a 1D horse. As stated earlier, barrel racing horses and riders are a team and as such need to know each other and work together. It will take some time for your new horse to learn your mannerisms, riding style, and signals. Once done, you will work together as a well oiled machine and rake in those prize checks and buckles, week in and week out.

The most popular barrel horse breed is the Quarter Horse. The quarter horse is followed by the Arabian. Although they are often good barrel horses, Arabians tend to be hard headed and difficult to manage.

When selecting your new Barrel Racing Horse, be sure he is trailer broke and loads and unloads without a great deal of fuss. Although some horses that have trailer issues can be “fixed”, many have been traumatized by poor trailer experiences which may even include injury while being trailered. Often times these earlier experiences cannot be overcome and you will be purchasing a frustrating problem which you will need to deal with every time you load up to and from a race. This can completely ruin the experience of the sport for you. I speak from experience on this subject.

Once you have determined what your needs in a barrel horse are, you need to consider the important features of a good Barrel Racing Horse

Heart: Your horse must have heart….Want to. You should have to hold him back in the alley until you are ready because he knows his job and is eager to please you.

Athletic: Your Barrel Racing Horse needs to carry himself evenly with a minimum of wasted motion. He should keep his hocks, knees, and hoofs as close to the ground as possible.

Age: Older horses tend to be calmer and better suited to the inexperienced rider. Many barrel horses compete effectively well into their 20’s.

Breeding: Just because a horse comes from champion blood does not automatically make him a champion. Be sure you are considering the horse you see in front of you and not just the horse you see in the paperwork. The horse in front of you is the reality.

This article has just skimmed the surface of Barrel Racing Horses, but hopefully the information I have offered will help you in the selection of a quality Barrel Racing Horse that suits your wants, needs, and goals.

6 Guinea Pig Care Mistakes

When dealing with guinea pigs, many mistakes are made by a simple action: visiting a pet shop. People imply by default that every and any product offered by a shop for a certain type of pet is legit and safe. Unfortunately, it is not. One of those products is a leash for guinea pigs, which in fact is a very bad idea. Cavies have very delicate spines and bone structure which can not tolerate stress generated by hamster wheels. Avoid at all costs.

Similar product, and our mistake number two, is a Hamster Wheel, which some people promote that it also works on cavies. But here is a fact: it does not work on cavies. Moreover, guinea pigs could seriously hurt themselves on that thing because of their delicate spines and bone structure which can not tolerate such stress.

Getting at number three, by putting your pet on the direct sunlight on the hot summer day, by believing that he/she need to get some sunlight and to get out of the shades. But in fact, guinea pigs have LOW tolerance for high temperatures and could suffer a heat stroke. They do prefer shades, after all, they are prey animals.

Single Guinea Pig is a mistake number 4. It could be easier to maintain and control, it is cheaper, maybe less messy, but the fact is, guinea pigs are social (herd) animals and they need company besides their human caretakers, no matter how much time they spend with their pets every day.

Small Cage is one of the most common mistakes, and here it is on number 5. Small cages do not enable fair air circulation, and there is a serious danger of higher toxic gasses fluctuation inside the cage. Smaller cages are messier, need cleaning more often, more unhealthy for your pet, and not to mention that cavies need larger living space because, well, they tend to grow.

Mistake number 6 involves improper diet – one of the most dangerous mistakes. Giving your pet human junk food, dairy products, wrong vegetables, too much fruits, or anything that is not on the “safe list”, creates a danger for your cavy. Seeds are also a mistake because they are mostly empty calories with no significant nutritional value, plus bonus feature: they are choking hazard. Learning guinea pig food preferences is one of the most important prerequisites for having a guinea pig for a pet.